Historic Town of Kamakura古都、鎌倉を行く

The Ocean in View

Kamakura lies around 40 kilometers south of Tokyo surrounded in three directions by mountains and facing the sea. From the 12th to the middle of the 14th century, it was the seat of the shogunate government, which built the foundation for Japan’s samurai society.

Kamakura retains vestiges of its history as the old capital, including the Great Buddha, a magnificent,11.3-meter bronze statue of Amida Buddha, Tsurugaoka Hachimangu, a shrine in the middle of the city connected with the Genji clan, and Hase-dera temple, commonly known as the Flower Temple. At the same time, Kamakura is also famous for its beaches. As part of the Shonan region, popular with surfers in particular, it is home to a fresh and stylish youth culture.

Walking from Kamakura Station in the direction of the salty air of the sea, in no time the ocean will come into view. You are only about an hour by train from Tokyo, but time passes slowly here; it seems worlds away from the hectic city. On clear days, you can see Enoshima island in the foreground and Mt. Fuji off in the distance; the scenery is particularly beautiful. At sundown, the sky takes on red and orange hues, creating an air of nostalgia. These ocean views are another side of Kamakura, differing from its lively tourist scene, but part and parcel of its charm.

Where Flowers Bloom

As you walk around Kamakura, you will likely notice the many cafés and restaurants tastefully decorated with seasonal flowers. This practice reflects a way of life oriented to the changing seasons and warm feelings of hospitality for the city’s visitors.

Kamakura’s appeal stems largely from its charming, historic shrines and temples, and these, too, are ablaze with flowers. Particularly splendid is Hase-dera, called the Land of Perfect Bliss, with its large temple grounds on Mt. Kannon and flowers that bloom throughout the year. In early summer, this old, distinguished temple is gorgeously arrayed with peony, wisteria and hydrangea blossoms.

Meigetsu-in temple is home to 2,500 hydrangea plants that cover the grounds with a beautiful pale blue named Meigetsu-in blue. Zuisen-ji temple, famous for its white plum blossoms, also has cotton roses that bloom pure white in the summer.

Flowers add touches of charm to the deep green trees and the old wooden structures and stone steps while enriching the hearts of all who see them.

Wholesome Kamakura Vegetables

Surrounded by mountains in three directions and open to the sea in the other, Kamakura’s mild climate is perfect for growing vegetables. Its proximity to the ocean means temperatures are moderate in the summer, and in the winter, snowfall is rare, so vegetables are rarely damaged. Kamakura has numerous farmers who grow their crops without greenhouses. Kamakura’s vegetables absorb these natural blessings and grow in the sea breezes, so they are rich in minerals. It is said they have a strong, rich flavor, and their scrumptiousness has captured the attention of a number of famous chefs. Kamakura vegetables have become a popular branded product in recent years, and in response, in addition to common vegetables, local farmers have begun to actively grow Western vegetables like Romanesco broccoli, zucchini and artichokes along with fennel and other herbs. There are around 100 varieties in total.

Located close to Kamakura Station, the Kamakura City Farmers’ Market is bustling every day with food industry pros, local residents and tourists. Established in 1928, it boasts a 90-year history and is the symbolic center of Kamakura food. Japan is known for its four distinct seasons and Kamakura’s vegetables are fresh and aromatic in a way that reflects this. They are served in all sorts of cuisine. The world is opening its eyes to the rich wholesomeness of Japan-branded vegetables, and the tide is rising here in Kamakura as well.

Old Inviting Homes

Kamakura still has old buildings and houses scattered throughout the city that were built as far back as the Edo period (1603-1868). They are a delight for visitors to behold and many have been converted to cafés. From Café Yamamomotei on the grounds of Ichijo Ekan Sanso, you can gaze on a mountain villa built some 370 years ago in Kyoto and relocated this past century to Kamakura. Records show the building was used as the salon of a Kyoto nobleman, and both elegant and whimsical design elements can be found throughout. Osaragi Saroh is a weekends-only café in a house the eminent writer Jiro Osaragi once used for entertaining. It was built in the Taisho period (1912-1926) and purchased by Osaragi in 1952, serving as a gathering place for the leading literary figures of the day. Ishikawa Coffee resides in a renovated house built about 50 years ago. Seeing the marks on a pillar showing the growth of a child who once lived there is a heartwarming glimpse into the past.

Each of these old homes is infused with a loving respect for history and the pride of people living in the old capital.