Nikko: Breeze of History風薫る史跡の郷 日光

The shrines and temples of Nikko, Tochigi Prefecture, located north around two hours by train from Tokyo, were selected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999. They are an extensive complex of religious buildings affiliated with Futarasan-jinja shrine, Toshogu Shrine and Rinno-ji temple all in a beautiful natural setting. The first buildings were constructed by Shodo Shonin, a Buddhist monk from the Nara period (710-794), and the area became a sacred place for mountain worship.

Nikko was already the largest sacred site in the Kanto region as of the Kamakura period (1185-1333), and a new chapter in its history began when the famous shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu (1543-1616) willed that his remains be entombed at Nikko after his death. Soon thereafter the shrine was rebuilt in its present glorious form by the third shogun, Tokugawa Iemitsu (1604-1651).

Ieyasu wanted a peaceful world free of conflict. Toshogu where he is entombed, faces directly south with the North Star behind it, watching over Edo then and Tokyo today.

Sublime Form

The Daiya River runs west to east through Nikko. It spills out of Lake Chuzenji and passes under Shinkyo Bridge at the entrance to the religious complex. Legend has it that Shodo Shonin, impeded by the river’s raging waters, prayed, and from two snakes grew creeping lilyturf that formed into a bridge and allowed him to cross. The bridge has since been repaired and reinforced, and it is now one of Japan’s official Important Cultural Properties.

We enter the sacred site while gazing on this storied bridge over crystalline waters. Futarasan-jinja, Toshogu and Rinno-ji are enclosed by two rivers, the Daiya and the Inari. On the north bank of the Daiya, Shodo built a small shrine for the god Futarasan, forerunner to Futarasan -jinja which is now called Hongu-jinja Shrine. Futarasan-jinja was later moved to the northwest of Toshogu. Giant cedar trees still dot the grounds, a testament to perpetuity.

Nikko Toshogu was rebuilt in 1636 by the third shogun, Tokugawa Iemitsu. It took 18 months and the labor, it is said, of 6.5 million workers, among them painters, lacquerers, and metalworkers. Toshogu bedazzles as a result, especially its magnificent carvings and decorations. The carvings range from Chinese sages and other figures to flora and fauna, both mythical and real, along with various motifs and patterns.

The most prevalent animal is the tiger, and all the tigers are on the fronts of important buildings. It was Ieyasu’s sign in the Chinese zodiac. The animal that appears next most is the rabbit, which is likely because the second shogun, Tokugawa Hidetada, was born in the Year of the Rabbit. The Three Wise Monkeys who “see no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil” sit on a beam on the sacred horse stable. Monkeys were once regarded as guardian deities for horses. The backside of the Sleeping Cat carving is decorated with carved sparrows, which can be interpreted as symbolizing peace and prosperity. The innumerable carvings and interior paintings are each imbued with multiple, overlapping meanings.

Nikko’s magnificence only increases come April, the month of the Yayoi Festival at Futarasan-jinja. Floats decorated with azaleas are paraded to the shrine from every quarter of the city, and borne up on strong shoulders are mikoshi, portable shrines, associated with Futarasan, Takio and Hongu Shrines, while the Dance of Eight Maidens is deftly performed at Futarasan’s worship hall. Spring comes festive to sacred Nikko.

Waterside Cool

Mt. Nyoho, Mt. Omanago, Mt. Komanako, and Mt. Nantai, elevation　2,486 meters, make up the Nikko Range. Around 20,000 years ago, Mt. Nantai erupted and its lava flows stopped up the streams, which led to the formation of Lake Chuzenji. Beyond the lake lies Senjogahara Marsh, which was once a lake created by an eruption around the same period, but later eruptions filled it in and transformed into marshland.

Senjogahara Marsh sits at an elevation of around 1,400 meters and is interspersed with walkways and trails for visitors to enjoy the marshland plants and birds in close proximity. Back further, beyond the marsh, is Lake Yunoko, created by lava flows from Mt. Mitsudake.
On the north shore of Lake Yunoko can be found Yumoto Onsen, a resort over a hot springs originally discovered, it is written, by none other than Shodo Shonin. It provided rest and relaxation for practitioners and travelers alike. On the south end of Lake Yunoko spills Yutaki Falls, while Lake Chuzenji has numerous beautiful waterfalls around it, including Ryuzu Falls and Kegon Falls. Hot springs, lakes, marshland, waterfalls—the spectacular scenery of Okunikko above the winding Irohazaka road is thanks to this combination of prehistoric volcanic activity, water in abundance, and precipitous elevation changes.

Lake Chuzenji at the base of Mt. Nantai is a large lake, around 25 kilometers in circumference. There were once restrictions on who was allowed to enter the area; only people like religious practitioners were authorized. In the Meiji period (1868-1912), the ban on women was lifted and foreigners began to visit as well. It later became a scenic summer retreat, with international diplomats and business tycoons building vacation homes. They spent their summers fishing and sailing on Lake Chuzenji, weekly races were held by sailing clubs, and the boats themselves were used for getting around between villas and for shopping. It was quite a spectacle.

Spring arrives late to Okunikko. The lovely local azaleas wait until late April to early May to flower. Then, as if lamenting the brief summer, the rhododendron, primrose and iris paint the marshes and mountains with color. In October, the fall hues gradually descend from the mountains to the city. Just two short hours from Tokyo, the changing face of nature can be enjoyed all year.

A Flavorful Stroll

Tofu skin, yuba in Japanese, was revered in Nikko as an offering at religious festivals and as a food eaten by religious practitioners. Ebiya Chozo, founded in 1872, is a venerable yuba restaurant that has even served the Imperial Villa. It continues to make its yuba starting with softening soybeans and making tofu. “This restaurant was more or less started because of Ebiya’s yuba,” says Ryuji Muramatsu, who opened Nagomi Chaya on Nikko’s central boulevard. His restaurant serves ninedish meals featuring freshly made hikiage yuba and stewed agemaki yuba. For the latter, fresh tofu skin that has been fried in oil and dried is slowly simmered in a faintly sweet dashi stock. It fills with flavor while maintaining its firm texture because the yuba used is perfect for the job.

There is another Nikko food steeped in history: Western cuisine, the foods enjoyed by foreigners here in bygone days. The stone-built, Western-style building beneath a stand of trees close to Toshogu was once the residence of an American business tycoon. During World War II, Japan’s foreign minister, Mamoru Shigemitsu, evacuated to the house. With its wonderful atmosphere, in 1977 the residence was converted into Meiji-no-Yakata, a restaurant serving Western cuisine. The menu conjures thoughts of the lives of the people who spent time in Nikko during the Meiji period. Especially popular are the rice-stuffed omelet and cheesecake. The restaurant’s demi-glace sauce, served with the omelet, is made with fond de veau and wine and is simmered for two weeks over briquettes. The baked cheesecake, made without flour, is served with sour cream for a smooth, refreshing texture. It is named, aptly, Nirvana. Both recipes are unchanged for 40 years.

For people heading up to Okunikko, it is wonderful to have Yutaki Resthouse right in front of Yutaki Falls, with sweetfish and dumplings roasting on the fire. The fragrant dumplings are seasoned with yuzu miso, a citrusy miso sauce made in-house. After bathing in the negative ions of the falls, nothing is better than delicious, piping-hot food.

Naturally and historically rich, Nikko provides new delights on every visit.