The highest mountain in Japan, the beautiful Mt. Fuji captivates many. In 2013, it was named a World Heritage Site, a “sacred place and source of artistic inspiration.” Its north side is ringed by lakes Yamanakako, Kawaguchiko, Saiko, Shojiko, and Motosuko, which together make up Fujigoko, or Fuji Five Lakes. They were formed by Mt. Fuji’s many eruptions and differ significantly in size, depth and clarity. The restaurants and recreational facilities along their shores are highly varied as well. Stunning views of the lakes ― their natural setting, the changing seasons, and towering Mt. Fuji ― have long been the subject of paintings, songs, and stories. Fujigoko is a place of picturesque beauty, one of Japan’s finest.
With cherry blossoms in spring, sunflowers and lavender in summer, fall colors and kochia in autumn, and the reflections of Diamond Fuji and Red Fuji in winter ― the lakes are postcard perfect. There are water activities as well, canoe, SUP and boat. Feel the breeze off the water, take in the view of Mt. Fuji, experience the spirit of Mother Nature. Is there any better way to spend one’s time?
Yamanakako, Kawaguchiko and Shojiko are 13 to 15 meters deep at their deepest, but Saiko is around 71 meters deep and Motosuko is over 120 meters deep. Their clarity also varies. The viewing platform on the way from Yamanakako to Mikuni Pass offers panoramic views of the lake and Mt. Fuji.
The Gunnai district of Yamanashi Prefecture, where Fujigoko is located, was once a major producer of a silk fabric called Kaiki. The moderate climate was highly suited to raising silkworms, and Kaiki developed until the 1940s as a high-end fabric for kimono and haori jackets. However, as traditional Japanese clothing disappeared from daily life, the industry met its end, though its history and weaving techniques are being passed down to a new textile industry that uses materials like cotton and linen.
Shinji Kobayashi is the third-generation owner of Tenjin Factory, which produces and sells linen products and fabrics. Dedicated to creating products that can be enjoyed with peace of mind, even by infants, the company currently uses certified Oeko-Tex linen yarn from Europe. “We use old-school shuttle weaving machines. This means extra effort for maintenance and finishing, but they produce a texture and softness that’s not possible with other looms. Cool in summer and warm in winter, linen is an exceptional fabric for year-round use. The snowmelt from Mt. Fuji, with very few impurities, is highly suited to dyeing, and I am acutely aware that this blessing of the land has been received acrossgenerations.”
Tenjin Factory takes orders for curtains, blankets, bedding and more, and offers the option of custom colors and embroidery.
Lake Bake, a bakery on the shores of Kawaguchiko, has been lauded for its bread baked with natural homemade yeast since it first opened in 2009. The eat-in area seats around 30 people, and the terrace with panoramic views of Mt. Fuji also has room for 30. When the weather is good, lines sometimes form out front. With ultra-fermented bread, the flavor is heightened as it is chewed. The bakery’s special scones come in 20 varieties over the course of the year. Even without baking powder, they bake up soft and fluffy. “ Some of the ingredients we use,” says owner Hiroo Yokomizo,“ are representative of Yamanashi, peaches in the summer, and grapes in the fall, for example, though not everything is local. Even so, you turn on the faucet and can drink aquifer water from Mt. Fuji, so we are certainly blessed. This soft water has a somewhat substantial influence on how the bread bakes.”
Sculpted by the volcanic activity of Mt. Fuji, nature here is unparalleled. Oshino Hakkai, a cluster of eight springs, and the forest Aokigahara Jukai, the“sea of trees,” were formed by lava flows. Narusawa Ice Cave, a Natural Monument, is a cavern made by steam venting from lava. It is 21 meters deep, 150 meters long and cold at 3℃, and it is filled with ice pillars. It was used as a storage shed for silkworm eggs until the 1950s. Many people also visit nearby Fugaku Wind Cave.
The plants and animals that make this unique environment home are also rich in variety. Black bears, spotted deer, wild goats, dormice, shrew moles, and other animals survive divided between lowland, mountain, and alpine zones. At the same time, wild deer have caused increasing damage in recent years so, to preserve the ecosystem, local hunters hunt the deer and make use of the venison.
Masaya Toyoshima, who offers a plate of venison from wild deer that he hunted himself, is the owner of the restaurant Toyoshima, which was honored by the Gault&Millau guide in 2022. As he spent a few years here for business, he came to appreciate the diverse range of foods in the region, and this led him to open a restaurant here in 2017. “I actually didn’t have much of a taste for wild game,” he says, “but my eyes were opened after I moved here. There’s a real difference when the meat is prepared fresh in the appropriate way. Combine that with the beautiful water here, and you get soups and sauces rich in flavor.”
The interior is designed on a “sea of trees” motif, and the cuisine is prepared meticulously, though it is also full of surprises. On a decorative old Imari-ware plate, for example, local venison in gooseberry sauce is reimagined as Mt. Fuji, Fujigoko, and a local village ― an entire world is suggested.
“I’ve felt a seamless connection between work and play over these past few years. Each dish reflects my outdoor excursions, and I try to provide customers with humor and delightful surprises. For customers from overseas, I prepare the game with Japanese flavors such as miso and perilla leaves, and I also make copious use of local fruits. There is a rich food culture here to be proud of, but I don’t think it has been promoted enough. Being honored by Gault & Millau, I gained confidence, and now I’m determined to connect and coordinate with people who share the same aspiration and further spread the word on our culture and techniques.”
Mt. Fuji and Fujigoko, giving our lives an abundance of blessings ― food, clothing, shelter and fun ― is one of the closest sanctuaries to Tokyo to escape the everyday and experience the heart of nature.
Text: Hiroe Nakajima
Photos: Shinsuke Matsukawa
This article is based on an article that appeared in THE PALACE Issue 06 published in February 2023 and contains information current as of February 2024. Please note that the article uses text and photos from 2023, and there may be some information that is not up to date.
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