With expansive scenery woven of water and trees, Marunouchi, Tokyo is a special place where one can sense Japan’s original landscape despite being in the heart of the city. The moats are remnants of Edo Castle and there is a world-famous business district right nearby. The everyday and the extraordinary are mingled, and Marunouchi continues to develop toward the future as the center of economics and culture. From the stonewalls of Wadakura Moat, a single swan draws a ripple on the water’s surface in front of you. This is the view from the main lobby, a signature spot that has come to symbolize Palace Hotel Tokyo. In the lobby, all sorts of people including some here for a special occasion and some traveling to Japan from overseas mingle, converse, and make memories together, and a tree watches over the gentle flow of time here in this tranquil space. With impressive branches that follow gently twisting lines, the Tamukeyama maple tree creates a subtle and profound scene with the stonewalls of the moat as its backdrop. In the spring, the new leaves are dyed a bright crimson, in the summer they are green, and in the fall they once again turn a magnificent crimson. The long, slender leaves have deep notches and look as if woven together to form a lace-like pattern on which is gently reflected the light of the day and the changing seasons. In this distinguished elegance one can perhaps perceive the profound sensibility, aesthetic sense and unique awareness of nature that have defined the Japanese people since ancient times.
This space, which is like an urban oasis, was designed by the worldrenowned architect Terry McGinnity when the hotel was modernized in May 2012. Taking inspiration from the hotel’s location, which offers a natural green setting and traditional Japanese culture despite being in the middle of Tokyo, the essence of Japan is added to the sensibilities he has developed at his home in Australia, at worksites around the world, and in the U.K., and these elements are interlaced in every aspect of the highly original concept. “I was inspired by the East Gardens of the Imperial Palace, which is reflected in both the form and the colors. I thought of designing all the hotel spaces based on that same idea, but I expressly fashioned the lobby that connects to the entrance to be like the entryway to a house. The main lobby is where many guests gather, so it is the heart of the hotel. It is a place where the hotel welcomes guests and also one from which those guests diverge and go their separate ways. I imagined it as a refreshing hub that is both bright and relaxing like a house.”
Terry made sketches for a hotel that was beginning a new history. In the relaxed, soothing lobby, he had drawn one symbol tree. Naoki Ueda of Mitsubishi Jisho Design, who was in charge of the landscape design, reflects back on that time. “When I looked at Terry’s sketch, I realized again the importance of a symbol tree. The lobby is the heart of the hotel, and has special meaning. I wracked my brains about which variety should be chosen for the main tree, which has a great influence on the impression the space makes.”
Regarding the selection of the tree, many project members, including the design team and hotel staff, put their heads together and discussed the matter many times. The view was framed with glass so from the lobby entrance it could be enjoyed like a single painting. Having a deciduous tree instead of an evergreen meant the view would not be predetermined throughout the year when looking outside. A cherry tree was considered an option because it would harmonize with the weeping cherries growing along the moat and would be an extension of an existing aesthetic. However, after cherry trees bloom their leaves are large and the branches are thick, so it was not thought the best balance with the elements making up the view from the lobby. This central Tokyo district has rows of high-rise buildings, so the direction of the wind and hours of sunshine were also important factors. After many multifaceted investigations and discussions, a fateful encounter occurred.
It happened the day Ueda went to an arboretum in Tochigi Prefecture looking for a tree that would be central to his design. He found a wonderfully formed Tamukeyama maple tree with the sun shining down on it unobstructed by anything from the south or west. “The unconstrained limbs spread out like a fan, making it seem full of vigor and spirit. The leaves too were delicate, with seasonal variations in color; I firmly believed that it would evoke a sense of Japan throughout the four seasons. A change of environment can sometimes stunt a tree’s growth, but I thought this tree was exactly right for a position along the moat that gets ample sunlight.” A plan was hatched to bring out the full charm of this Tamukeyama maple. First was its position. As a symbol tree, one might expect it to be placed in the middle when viewed from the lobby, but actually the tree was placed on the left side, a little offcenter. This gave rise to an asymmetrical beauty typical of Japanese aesthetics and produced an elegant blank space in the scenery. Aji stone was added in front of the tree as an accompaniment and the changing natural beauty of the seasons can be seen reflected on its polished surface. Though the hotel is in the middle of the city, it was designed for the experience of Japan’s refined aesthetic traditions.
Now, in 2024, the Tamukeyama has been standing and welcoming guests for over ten years. Its look of refinement has not changed at all with the years. It is trimmed precisely and regularly by the professional gardeners who take care of all the hotel’s trees and bushes. In the summer, when the branches grow quickly and there is too much space between them, and in the winter, when the leaves fall off and only the branches remain, the gardeners work to make sure the look of the tree is always appealing by trimming gently along the flow of the branches. It may seem like a young tree, but it is actually 80 years old. It is a delicate tree, so maintaining its beauty is no easy task, says Akira Uchida, Palace Hotel Tokyo’s former Director of Engineering & Facility Management.
“Ever since the Tamukeyama arrived here, I always go look at it every morning. I remember the branches and the tree’s optimal shape and have looked after it for many years. Even the smallest of changes, I’ll notice. As the person charged with caring for this tree, I am beside myself with worry during typhoons and heavy snowfall. It is an important presence as the symbol tree of Palace Hotel Tokyo and is also loved by the staff.”
A renowned poet from the Heian period (794-1185), Sugawara no Michizane, penned the following poem: “On this journey I have no streamers made of silk to offer up. Gods, if it pleases you, may you take instead this beautiful brocade of Mt. Tamuke's autumn colors.” Nara Prefecture is known for its fall foliage, and Mt. Tamuke is covered in a beautiful brocade of turning leaves as in a woodblock print. The beautifully colored Tamukeyama maple branches become the poet’s offering to the gods as he prays for the safety of travelers. This poem is a beloved part of the famous collection 100 Poems by 100 Poets. This morning the sunlit leaves of the Tamukeyama maple once again bring seasonal transformations to the lobby. A constant presence, the tree will continue to watch over travelers and offer some moments of relaxation away from the everyday world.
Text: Ayako Watanabe
Photos: Sadato Ishizuka
This article is based on an article that appeared in THE PALACE Issue 07 published in February 2024 and contains information current as of February 2025. Please note that the article uses text and photos from 2024, and there may be some information that is not up to date.
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